September Cheese of the Month: Olde York
When we talk about the cheeses that made Shepherds Purse what it is today, it’s impossible not to mention Olde York.
Soft, fresh and wonderfully versatile, Olde York has been part of our story since the very beginning. In fact, it was one of the very first cheeses our founder Judy Bell, made back in the late 1980s, when sheep’s milk cheese was still something of a rarity in Britain.
Today, we’re perhaps best known for our award-winning blue cheeses, but Shepherds Purse actually began life making cheese from sheep’s milk. Olde York is a delicious reminder of those early days, and of Judy’s determination to do things a little differently.
Our first flock
When Judy started experimenting with cheesemaking, she began with milk from our own flock of sheep here on the family farm in North Yorkshire. At the time, very few British cheesemakers were working with sheep’s milk, so there was plenty of learning, experimenting and problem-solving involved.
Olde York was one of the results and it didn’t take long for people to fall for its fresh, delicate character.
In fact, Olde York won Gold at the International Cheese Awards at Nantwich in 1989, giving Shepherds Purse its very first cheese award.
As demand for our sheep’s milk cheeses grew, we quickly realised that our own flock simply couldn’t produce enough milk to keep up, began sourcing milk form a cooperative of exceptional flocks across the North of England. It’s a partnership that has grown and allowed us to continue making one of our original cheeses using the very best milk available to us.
The sky’s the limit!
Did you know Olde York was served on Concorde?
Back in the 1990s, it was selected for the British Airways Concorde menu, putting our soft white ewe’s milk cheese firmly in the company of some rather glamorous international fare.
It’s a lovely piece of Shepherds Purse history, and perhaps proof that good cheese can travel a very long way from a small family farm in North Yorkshire.
And Olde York’s award-winning history hasn’t stopped there. More recently, it picked up two stars at the 2022 Great Taste Awards, showing that this original Shepherds Purse favourite still has plenty to offer.
What makes Olde York different?
One of the things we love about Olde York is that it’s made using a method that’s quite different from our other cheeses.
It’s based on the Coulommier method, a traditional French cheesemaking technique that helps create Olde York’s wonderfully delicate texture. Rather than pressing the curds, our cheesemakers gently layer them into the moulds where they are left to settle under their own weight, allowing the whey to drain away slowly and naturally.
It’s also a relatively young cheese. Unlike some of our longer-matured cheeses, Olde York needs only a couple of weeks to develop its fresh flavour and delicate texture.
There’s no rushing the process. Just carefully handled curds, time and the skill of our cheesemakers. The result is a soft, fresh cheese with a beautifully delicate texture that slices cleanly when cold but becomes wonderfully creamy and almost spreadable as it gently comes up to room temperature.
Once it’s ready, each little truckle is waxed by hand. The wax helps protect the cheese and preserve its fresh character, keeping that delicate texture and flavour at their best.
Why sheep milk?
There’s something rather special about ewe’s milk.
Compared with cow’s milk, sheep’s milk naturally contains higher levels of protein, fat and calcium, which gives it a particularly rich and concentrated composition. It also provides a range of vitamins and minerals, including vitamin A and vitamin B12.
That richness is one of the reasons sheep’s milk is so wonderful for cheesemaking. It gives us a beautifully creamy base to work with, while Olde York’s young age and gentle cheesemaking process allow the fresh, bright character of the milk to shine through.
Fresh, citrusy and surprisingly versatile
Pairing and serving
Unlike a mature hard cheese or one of our blues, Olde York is fresh, delicate and creamy, with a subtle citrusy, lemony character.
Take it straight from the fridge and it has enough structure to slice beautifully. Leave it at room temperature for a little while and the texture softens, becoming wonderfully creamy and spreadable.
One of our favourite things about Olde York is its versatility.
It works beautifully with simple, fresh flavours. Try it with ripe strawberries, grapes or a drizzle of honey. For something a little more celebratory, its delicate creaminess is a lovely match for a glass of Champagne or another sparkling wine.
If you want to try something a little unexpected, there’s always the humble Malteser.
The malty, chocolatey crunch of the Malteser against the soft, fresh texture of Olde York might sound unusual, but it really does work. The sweetness and crunch provide a lovely contrast to the delicate savouriness of the cheese.
Olde York also works wonderfully in puddings such as roulades and cheesecakes, where it brings richness without overpowering everything else.
Ready to discover Olde York?
If you’ve never tried it before, September is the perfect time to give this Shepherds Purse original a place on your cheeseboard.